The deal-breaker ended up being its cherry laminate surface. And then, when we relented and I went to buy it anyway, it was backordered 'til the end of the century.
Then, the mother saw one she liked in a local store. Mind you, it was pretty, the price wasn't bad, but it was 54 INCHES LONG!!! (Our kitchen is roughly 8x10.) I was not caving to that one. We battled. Regularly.
But I'm nothing if not persistent. (Sometimes my stubborn streak isn't all bad.) I kept looking and lo and behold, the cart returneth to stock -- and at a REDUCED PRICE and with LOWER SHIPPING!
Well, that's way more than I can argue with. When I told the mother, she badgered me all weekend 'til I finally ordered it.
And get this? In the interim between the time that the counter surface was the deal breaker and the dramatically price-reduced cart returned to the Internet, I found a solution for the surface. Not sure if it's going to work, but I'm willing to give it a try. Stay tuned for details.